My Vacation on Madeira

Written by Rolf

I don't like to go on vacation in the tourist season. Not just because it's twice as expensive, but mostly because of the tourists masses everywhere. So if I go, I prefer to go in the spring or fall. Years ago I went to Madeira in February with my now-ex-girlfriend.

February 21

Like apparently most of our vacations, we left the house before the sun was up. Slightly after five o'clock we set off to Schiphol. After a long queue at the checkin desk, we didn't have to wait at the gate. The plane took off at eight, with a half hour delay, and landed at eleven on Madeira, a Portugese island, after a four hour flight. It was only an hour time difference, so jetlag was no issue.

Santa Cruz was cloudy and very windy. We were worried we should have taken warmer clothes with us. We arrived at our aparthotel Belo Sol after the bus dumped several travelers at other hotels. We took our bags to the room and installed ourselves on the tiny balcony. It looked more like a windowsill compared to the huge terrace we had in the Algarve. Out of the wind and in the sun it was quite warm, even hot. We took our tops off and were worried we should have taken our shorts with us.

We used the afternoon to explore the hotel's immediate surroundings. We discovered lots of little restaurants and shops, among which a supermarket fortunately, where we would be doing our daily groceries. We had dinner at O Dragoneiro where the food was just fine, but the service sucked donkey balls. Since we had quite a long day, we went to bed at around eleven.

February 22

After having slept in a little, we decided to rent a car and explore more of the island. We rented it for five days, which should be plenty to see most of Madeira. It was a rental car, so the gas tank was almost completely dry and we started by searching for a gas station. Since we were almost in panic mode, we didn't really get to enjoy the views until we found a station in Câmara de Lobos and filled up our car.

With a full tank we could finally start to enjoy the trip. The little town of Câmara de Lobos had a cute little harbour and we noticed all kinds of pretty flowers we didn't have back home. We wiggled the car up through the rocky hills and arrived in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos. We parked the car here (needed to pay for it!) and walked to a small church with graveyard. I sort of have a fascination for foreign graveyards, as it seems that each country has their own unique way of burying their people. On this graveyard we encountered a bulldozer. I know they recycle old graves but still it is odd and morbid to be confronted with it.

An hour later we were back in the car and via many very curvy roads we noticed a sign Miradoura (viewpoint). We were on Cabo Girão, one of the highest cliffs of Madeira, 580 meters (1900 feet) directly over the ocean. Below us we saw some vineyards and fields and wondered how they would get there. Over small roads we went deeper into the inlands. To the side of the road, many meters down, we spotted several car wrecks. As much as possible, we drove even more careful.

Back in Funchal we briefly had trouble finding the hotel again. We did easily find another graveyard, a big one this time. Here, too, they were busy digging. We got a good impression of how people got buried, as there were caskets in the holes but also above ground.

We decided to have dinner at the McDonald's, for what is a vacation without having dined at the Mac? It didn't take us long to find the town center, but the Mac was kind of hidden. We eventually did find it and enjoyed a good solid meal. After dinner we enjoyed the last rays of sun on the pier and went back to the hotel.

February 23

Today we would check out the east coast of Madeira. The day started out cloudy and we drove steadily along the curvy route. On the way we passed many a field with cute little triangular sheds. We got out of the car at Pico do Facho, where we had a lovely view of Machico, the airport and the eastern most point of Madeira.

On the lee-side of the mountain it was pleasantly warm and we decided to have our lunch here. We were entertained by dozens of small salamanders that were very curious and modelled for us. We were less amused when they bit us, but fortunately it didn't really hurt, it was more the unexpected. Their little feet did tickle though.

We drove on until we couldn't go any further. We were now at the Baía d'Abra and enjoyed the rugged coast and the ocean beating on the rocks. After a small stroll we got back in the car to go back, but preferably not the same way we got there. When my ex drove through Machico for the fourth time, I convinced her to take the main road after all and soon we were back in Funchal.

After having enjoyed the sun a bit more on our balcony, we went out to dinner and had the real Madeira soup: a rich tomato soup with onion and a poached egg. Brilliant! The pizza was okay too, but we were still too impressed with the soup to fully appreciate it.

February 24

The day started out well. We had planned to see the high mountains on Madeira. My ex was driving and got lost when she hadn't even left Funchal. She drove up a very steep slope and really pushed the limits of our rental Seat Arosa. She pretended as if she had intended that and subtly turned around to go the right way, through a forest of eucalyptus trees and almost got high on the smell of it.

We paused at the Curral dos Romeiros where we had a great view. Soon enough more cars pulled over which was our cue to be on our way again. Along the way to the Poiso pass (1413 meters) we passed a few pretty waterfalls. On the pass we were surprised by the lovely weather. From here we went to the Pico do Arieiro (1818 meters), the third highest mountain of Madeira. The view was stunning. We had our lunch up there and went back over the curvy road.

Via Faial we arrived in Santana, known for its typical small triangular houses. However, we only found 3 of them in the entire village and felt a bit disappointed that the travel guides really over-hyped them. Nevertheless, the houses were indeed lovely.

We decided to not turn around and go back just yet, but instead continue along the coastal road to São Vicente. We didn't come to regret it. The road was very narrow and we even had to back up a couple of times to let oncomers pass, but the road and its views were stunning.

After quite a while we arrived at São Vicente and I noticed signs saying Grutas (caves) so of course we had to explore. It had already been half past four, but apparently there were tours until seven. We had to wait for a tour to finish and spent that time observing white peacocks that were strolling on the terrain. It was past five when we entered the caves. The caves were formed 4000 years ago when Madeira was a volcanic island.

The tour took not as long as expected, but we were not that disappointed as we still had a long way to drive back to the hotel. But the way back also turned out to be shorter than expected, as a tunnel had been built that took us to the other end of the island and via the Via Rapida we were back on our way to Funchal.

It being Sunday, we were in the mood for steaks and one of those brilliant Madeira soup. We had bought some liquor on the way back to the hotel, drank most of it and spent a good part of the night singing on our balcony.

February 25

Despite the copious amounts of alcohol the previous night, we were up and running early next morning. This time we chose the Encumeada pass over the tunnel. There wasn't much traffic on the way which gave us the opportunity to pull over and stop at one of the big waterfalls, falling down the mountains.

At the top we arrived at Paúl de Serra. The terrain was wide and flat and different from what we had seen. The road we were on, reminded us of those American Route 66 style highways, a long straight road, bright sunny sky with no other car in view.

Suddenly in the middle of nowhere on the plains, was am exit to Rabaçal, a small narrow windy not-quite-paved path, ending in a parking lot. We got out of the car and enjoyed a stroll along the levada (irrigation channel) to the Risco waterfall. It was quite chilly here, because we were in the shade and water came trickling down the rocks. The waterfall was kind of impressive, not because of the amounts of water, but because of the height.

Back in the car we kept the windows shut as it had gotten rather cloudy up there. We descended toward Porto Moniz. The view was nice and we wanted to check out the little rocky island in close-up. There were open-air pools in the ocean, made of lava rock with clear water and lots of fish.

We took the northern coastal road to São Vicente, which was a lot less spectacular than the other side, and through the tunnel back home. At night we ate at the Sun City restaurant. The food was alright but we had to wait a long time and the Madeira Soup wasn't nearly as good here, so I recommend avoiding this place.

February 26

We had seen most of what we wanted to see, so what was left? We went to Curral das Freiras, which is a secluded valley within high mountains. It has gotten the name when nuns used to flee here from pirates. That's what my ex told me, reading travel guides was a hobby of hers. At least the view at the viewpoint was great. The road down went on for a long way but suddenly ended in a wall. Back up, the car got thirsty, I got hungry and my ex needed to pee, so we went back to the hotel and handed in the keys to the rental car.

We spent the rest of the day in the sun on our balcony, fleeing inside every once in a while when it got too hot. We didn't really feel like going out to dinner, but the Madeira soup was too much of a temptation to not go to our pizzeria. On our way back we bought an instant meal and yoghurt at the supermarket to eat in our apartment and end our quiet lazy day.

February 27

We started the day easily on our balcony. Only around three o'clock we started walking to Funchal town center, as we realized we hadn't really been there yet. It was about a mile's walk and we strolled around somewhat, walking on the boulevard, observing people and checked out a church, that looked very different from other churches we had seen, very messy on the inside, walls covered with lots of tiles.

We walked past the Infante fountain through a big park, back up the mountain. After having watched the Santa Maria de Colombo safely enter the harbour, we could peacefully return to the hotel, but not after having dinner at a luxurious pizzeria where we had carpaccio, pizza and a cappuccino.

February 28

At half past eight we were woken by the phone, so we would be ready to leave in time. We had breakfast and fed the pigeons on the balcony who got more rude by the day (good luck with them, next guests). Having packed everything, we were ready to be picked up by the bus at half past nine. At the airport we ended up in a long line at the chicken (the hostess's version of the check-in).

We observed several planes landing and taking off, slammed a few cups of coffee, got on our plane and took off. We had the wind in our back and arrived half an hour earlier than anticipated. We were back at the car on parking field P3 at just after five, and entered our front door just before six. We did some groceries, loaded laundry in the machine, made and ate dinner and watched some television before going to bed. We were expected at work again the next day.